I am going to purchase the cheat sheets for my Nikon D5200 camera. If I wanted to download the cheat sheets onto an iPhone 6s, will I also be able to download them onto my iPad? Regards, Papa1B
Hey Mike or Moose, I just bought the cheat sheets for the Nikon D5100 this morning Saturday, April 9th. I went to do the download to iBooks like you said but the file just started downloading before I could find the iBook feature to save it to. So after it finished downloading I went to iBooks and there was nothing there? So I tried again on my iPad and the same thing happened. Now I don't have any downloads what so ever. I have looked everywhere on both my iPhone 6s and iPad. Any idea where to look, or do I have to repurchase it again? Regards, Papa1B
You should be able to click on the link to download again with your iPad. When it opens if you touch the right corner of the screen it will say open in iBooks. Then just go to iBooks and read it. You can also click on the little box on the top of your screen with the arrow going up and click add to home screen or add to favorites.
Hey Mike, that's the problem as I tried it on on iPad also and it did the same thing. I pushed the download link, and according to the instructions, after you push the download button it is supposed to allow it to go to iBook, but it didn't do that. It download and then it disappeared. So now there are no links to download left. I guess I will have to wait till Moose reads my forum and he contacts me. as I don't have a email to contact him directly. Regards, Papa1B (Brian)
Hey Mike, thanks for that email. I will Email Moose now and see if there's anything that he can do for me. I have asked friends and they're stuck as to where to lok also! Just my luck. Not sure if Barbara was asking me or you if you have the cheat cards for the Canon T5, or if she was thinking Moose would read the forums and answer her back. Again, thanks for your help! Cheers, Pap1B (Brian)
@papa1B - Hey Brian, I just responded to your email. If you're opening the cheat cards inside the Gmail app or Chrome app on your mobile device, it will open them inside Google's proprietary PDF viewer.
Try opening the cheat cards in Safari. You can copy the download link and paste it into the URL field inside the Safari app and that should allow you to download and then see the "Open in iBooks" button.
I'm not familiar with what you can do on mobile devices, but the PDF add-on for Firefox also has a download icon. It will send you files to a "DOWLOADS" folder from which you can copy as you need.
Hey Moose, cool cheat cards, I really needed it. Anywho, I was reading tips for children's portraits, daytime, indoor with a Nikon D5100 and 18-55mm. It says to adjust zoom to 35mm, and set manual and aperture to f/5. However, when I set it all up, it sets up to f/5.6. When I set up zoom to 35mm, does the aperture automatically go to f/5, or do I have to set it up manually? I notice on some of my tips when I play with them, the aperture is at the setting you want them to be automatically. 1. Do I change my dial to A mode and set up aperture manually? 2. Am I to assume when I am using a tip and certain shutter and aperture setting are needed, I would have to rotate dial and set up manually and not just stay on manual mode? 3. I can set up ISO from the dial command method and from the (i set) button when I am on manual mode. What's your choice? I hope I didn't confuse you.
Hi @kayregie - When the cheat cards specify "Manual mode (M)", you will need to set the aperture, ISO and shutter speed manually. The cheat cards walk you through this process step-by-step.
If you don't know how to adjust the aperture, ISO or shutter speed, you can reference the very last cheat card which is a quick reference. That quick reference card will quickly show you how to adjust common things.
Give it a glance and let me know if it makes sense. Feel free to reach out with any more questions, I'm happy to help. :)
Kayregie, I don't know if this is an issue in this case, but variable aperture zooms are funny the way they adjust.
If you are set to 55mm and set your aperture to maximum, it will read 5.6, and it will stay 5.6 when you zoom out, even though the lens can go faster when you zoom out.
If you are set to 18mm and set your aperture to maximum, it will read 3.5, and when you zoom in, it will reduce at the variable rate, but it will always be at the maximum for the focal length.
Whatever focal length you're set at, the maximum aperture you select then may get smaller, but will never get larger.
Remember, too, that for the single wheel, when you're in manual mode, you must hold down the [+/-] compensation button to adjust aperture.
Hello, I just downloaded the some cheat sheets for my D3300 and wondered if you had one for a 10-20mm lens? If not, can anyone point me in a direction? I'm new to photography and would love to have a cheat sheet for that lens. Many thanks.
Hey @estherv - You can actually use the (landscape/architecture, sunset/sunrise, stars, exteriors/interiors, fireworks, waterfall) scenarios included with your 18-55mm set, with the 10-20mm lens. The settings will be the same. All the best!
I would add that when you go very wide, a couple of things may become more an issue.
The first is that a great deal of the exposure outdoors will be of sky. On water, you'll get a lot of both water and sky. That's already the case for the wider settings of the kit lens, but may be enough more that you will have to do a little exposure compensation or post processing to get the dark areas opened up. Of course if you're exposing for the sky anyway, it's no problem.
The second is a matter more of composition. A very wide lens will include a huge amount of foreground, and will be somewhat more prone to obvious perspective distortion if you shoot square objects with the lens tilted upward to limit the foreground. You can make that work for you (towering slanting trees, skyscrapers diminishing as they rise), but for some things, like architectural shots, you must be careful. You can correct some distortion in post, but when you do, the image will have to be cropped a lot, so if you intend to correct, make sure there's plenty of margin to spare.
If all you need to do is release the shutter and no other operations, get the IR remote control (Nikon ML-L3 or equivalent). It is only a shutter button, but it works well, and it's cheap. You can get third party ones for 10 bucks and under (at least here in the USA), and even the Nikon one is reasonable.
I am not entirely sure how the IR release works in bulb and time mode on the D7200. On the D3200 there is no "time" setting, but when set to "bulb" the IR release opens the shutter on the first push and closes it on the second, making for a time exposure. On that the remote is the only way to get a time exposure. I think on the D7200 you have to go into manual mode and select "--" as your shutter speed, and it accomplishes the same thing.
For some reason, at least on the D7100, the IR release is not included in the shutter modes, nor in the custom menu. You have to go to the main menu to turn it on. I think the Nikon engineers either forgot about it until the last minute, or had a brain cramp. It's one of the few things that is easier to activate on a D3200.
I have one for the D3200 and use it a lot for tripod shots. You can set it to a two second delay, too, so that things settle down before it shoots, and so that if doing a group shot or selfie you have time to drop or hide the remote.
Comments
Regards,
Papa1B
Hope this helps.
Mike
Regards,
Papa1B (Brian)
Barbara
Cheers,
Pap1B (Brian)
Try opening the cheat cards in Safari. You can copy the download link and paste it into the URL field inside the Safari app and that should allow you to download and then see the "Open in iBooks" button.
All the best!
1. Do I change my dial to A mode and set up aperture manually?
2. Am I to assume when I am using a tip and certain shutter and aperture setting are needed, I would have to rotate dial and set up manually and not just stay on manual mode?
3. I can set up ISO from the dial command method and from the (i set) button when I am on manual mode. What's your choice?
I hope I didn't confuse you.
If you don't know how to adjust the aperture, ISO or shutter speed, you can reference the very last cheat card which is a quick reference. That quick reference card will quickly show you how to adjust common things.
Give it a glance and let me know if it makes sense. Feel free to reach out with any more questions, I'm happy to help. :)
If you are set to 55mm and set your aperture to maximum, it will read 5.6, and it will stay 5.6 when you zoom out, even though the lens can go faster when you zoom out.
If you are set to 18mm and set your aperture to maximum, it will read 3.5, and when you zoom in, it will reduce at the variable rate, but it will always be at the maximum for the focal length.
Whatever focal length you're set at, the maximum aperture you select then may get smaller, but will never get larger.
Remember, too, that for the single wheel, when you're in manual mode, you must hold down the [+/-] compensation button to adjust aperture.
The first is that a great deal of the exposure outdoors will be of sky. On water, you'll get a lot of both water and sky. That's already the case for the wider settings of the kit lens, but may be enough more that you will have to do a little exposure compensation or post processing to get the dark areas opened up. Of course if you're exposing for the sky anyway, it's no problem.
The second is a matter more of composition. A very wide lens will include a huge amount of foreground, and will be somewhat more prone to obvious perspective distortion if you shoot square objects with the lens tilted upward to limit the foreground. You can make that work for you (towering slanting trees, skyscrapers diminishing as they rise), but for some things, like architectural shots, you must be careful. You can correct some distortion in post, but when you do, the image will have to be cropped a lot, so if you intend to correct, make sure there's plenty of margin to spare.
I am not entirely sure how the IR release works in bulb and time mode on the D7200. On the D3200 there is no "time" setting, but when set to "bulb" the IR release opens the shutter on the first push and closes it on the second, making for a time exposure. On that the remote is the only way to get a time exposure. I think on the D7200 you have to go into manual mode and select "--" as your shutter speed, and it accomplishes the same thing.
For some reason, at least on the D7100, the IR release is not included in the shutter modes, nor in the custom menu. You have to go to the main menu to turn it on. I think the Nikon engineers either forgot about it until the last minute, or had a brain cramp. It's one of the few things that is easier to activate on a D3200.
I have one for the D3200 and use it a lot for tripod shots. You can set it to a two second delay, too, so that things settle down before it shoots, and so that if doing a group shot or selfie you have time to drop or hide the remote.