I have had pretty good results from macro filters in general, though I've been using other things recently. They come in various strengths, but are pretty simple to use. Your best bet with any such filter is to use the longest (55mm in this case) focal length. It may take some practice to find the optimum distance at which an image is in focus and AF works correctly, but it should, and you should not need to do much else in compensation. The great advantage of these accessories is that they require no exposure compensation and do not interrupt the lens's automation.
Macro filters (diopters) are basically just a magnifying lens, with different degrees of quality. The best are achromatic and give good performance with little distortion, but even the best may be a bit soft around the edges. You're best off using them on subjects which are not rigidly rectilinear. A bug or a flower will come out well where a patch of fabric or a closeup of file teeth may not.
Depth of field in macro mode will always be very shallow. You'll have to focus very carefully, and may have to switch to manual to get precisely what you want sharp. Lighting can also be a challenge in macro, as the camera itself can shade the subject because it is so close, and your best detail will be when it is brightly lit. You should do pretty well with flowers and bugs outdoors, but macro lighting can become complex if you need to avoid harsh shadows and dark areas. It's a subject on which whole books have been written. Your best bet is probably just to go out and practice a lot.
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Macro filters (diopters) are basically just a magnifying lens, with different degrees of quality. The best are achromatic and give good performance with little distortion, but even the best may be a bit soft around the edges. You're best off using them on subjects which are not rigidly rectilinear. A bug or a flower will come out well where a patch of fabric or a closeup of file teeth may not.
Depth of field in macro mode will always be very shallow. You'll have to focus very carefully, and may have to switch to manual to get precisely what you want sharp. Lighting can also be a challenge in macro, as the camera itself can shade the subject because it is so close, and your best detail will be when it is brightly lit. You should do pretty well with flowers and bugs outdoors, but macro lighting can become complex if you need to avoid harsh shadows and dark areas. It's a subject on which whole books have been written. Your best bet is probably just to go out and practice a lot.