Dilemma between D3300 and 1200D

edited October 2015 Posted in » General Discussion
Hello guys. I'm new to dslr photography, and I'm planning to get one. My dilemma is that I can get a Canon 1200D (with 18-55mm and 55-200mm lens) and a Nikon D3300 for the same price. I know a D3300 is a better device than the 1200D, but does getting the 55-200mm lens along with the kit lens in Canon make it more lucrative, or should I stick with Nikon (with only the 18-55mm)?

Thanks

Comments

  • edited October 2015
    I'm honestly no expert, but I'd personally pick the Nikon. It has so many great features and you'd probably not be looking for a higher end camera after half a year, because unlike the 1200D, the Nikon has a few intermediate features that'll keep you satisfied.
  • edited October 2015
    I don't know what the Canon's pictures look like, but I think you'll like what the Nikon gives you. Though the D3300 (and its predecessor the D3200, which I have) is bottom of the line, and lacks many features and refinements, its sensor quality is top of the line.
  • edited October 2015
    Although I'm a Canon enthusiast, I don't push any of their stuff. You need to do what I did when buying digital for the first time; take a look at both cameras live. In other words, visit a camera shop and handle each of the models you are interested in. How do they feel in your hand? Can you reach buttons and wheels easily with your fingers? Ask to try them with different lenses to check out the balance and weight.
    As for the capabilities of the cameras themselves, beware comparison reviews. Every camera has its plus and minus points. What the Nikon lacks, the Canon might have or vice versa. It's a case of swings and roundabouts.
    The important thing to remember when you do decide, is that you are buying into a system. Nikon lenses fit Nikons and Canon lenses fit Canons etc.
    I offer this advice based on nearly 60 years of photographic experience, during which time I have owned Kodak, Leica, Practica, Olympus, Yashica, Nikon and Canon and many more besides.
    PBked
  • edited October 2015
    Reading up on this, it looks as if the Nikon has a small advantage, but the two are so close and so much better than what used to be available that I doubt you would go far wrong with either. As @pbked suggests, I think it would pay to try them both out if you can, and see if there is any difference in how they feel. Of course once you've gotten something and learned it, the difference will seem less important, but you might as well go with what feels best at the start. Part of my Nikon preference has to do with having bought into the system since 1970, but if you're starting from scratch, the choice is less important.
  • edited October 2015
    Hi, I am new to photography, and I love pictures so my hubby got me the D3200. I Have watched a lot of video and I really want to leave auto mode, but I'm confused about the A and S mode. I have a photo shoot soon, so do you have any advice to take great pictures of the models outdoor?
  • edited October 2015
    Also, mine came with 2 lenses, the 18-55mm and 55-200mm. I don't know which is best for the blurry effect, or how to achieve it. Thanks.
  • edited October 2015
    A mode controls the aperture which you set (the camera chooses the shutter speed). Big F-numbers mean smaller apertures. Smaller F-numbers mean bigger apertures. So f/2.8 is a bigger hole in the iris and f/16 is a smaller hole.
    A mode is typically what you would use for portaits as there is little movement of the subject.
    S mode controls the shutter speed which you set (the camera chooses the aperture). A low shutter speed can blur the action and a high one can freeze it. You would use S mode for sports for example.
    For outdoor portraits, here are some basic tips.
    a) Use a low F-number like f/3.5 (I believe this is the minimum for your lens), as large apertures also reduce depth of field.
    b) Position your model as far away as possible from distracting backgrounds.
    c) Fill your frame as much as possible with the subject and for faces always focus on the eyes.
    d) In your case I would use your 18-55mm, which will enable you to stand far enough away from your subject, so as not to intimidate them, but close enough to capture details. Your 55-200mm could be used but means you have to stand much further away.
    e) Use a low ISO like 100 for finest detail, but as this will be your first photoshoot, I would opt for auto ISO.
    As you are a beginner, I heartily recommend you purchase @Moose cheat sheets for your camera.
    Regards,
    PBked
  • edited October 2015
    @PBKed covers it nicely here. I would just add that outdoors, if you do have room to stand back, you might try the 55-200mm lens for portraits, because longer focal lengths produce shallower depth of field. In some cases this can be overdone, and you don't want your DOF so shallow that part of a face is blurry, but a focal length somewhere in the 70-100mm range can be quite nice, and it gives you a little more latitude to adjust depth of field with the aperture.

    When using the 18-55mm for portraits, you're best off keeping it nearer to 55mm for the same reason - depth of field is shallower at longer focal length. There also is a perspective difference, and short focal lengths tend to exaggerate facial features such as noses. Perspective flattens as you go longer, and 55mm is kinder to a face than 18mm.

    Some people are convinced you can't get good portraits with good background blur with the kit lens, but you can, with some care. Suggestion "b" above is critical. Don't put your subject close in front of a tree or wall unless you want that background in focus.

    For safety, auto ISO is probably a good idea, but make sure you set your starting ISO then at 100. ISO will rise only as needed.
  • edited December 2015
    What you want to do with the camera in several years from now is very important. Both cameras are good "entry level" cameras. If you want to take snap shots, then either will work well. It is simply a matter of choosing which camera fits your hands, and your style of shooting.

    However, if you want to learn more about photography, and grow, then I recommend getting an upgrade by buying a used camera and lens from Craig's List or a reputable local dealer; that is how I got my Nikon D5300. It had only 17K shutter actuations (clicks), and the newer cameras are rated at 1ooK + actuations before failure (very unlikely).

    How to find the number of shots taken is easy. Get a photo from the guy you buy from, and do a search on "How many clicks?". Upload the photo to the site, and they will tell you.

    I use the Nikon 55-200mm as my go-to-lens. It is great for portraits because it can get close into your subject, and not physically close to be obtrusive.

    The 18-55mm is good for wide angle shots, outdoor scenes and general photography. If I recall, the smallest opening is very good for detailed scenic shots.

    In summary, all I can state is this principle: think future, not present when you buy. Then, when you do buy, go to the local library and look at the books about your specific camera and buy the one you understand the best.

    This can be a VERY EXPENSIVE hobby, but if you read and learn about the rules of thirds for composition and others for examples you can get years of pleasure from your simple entry-level camera.

    If you like what you shoot, and you want to tinker with the shots, then you may want to download a free program that is almost as good as the $600+ Photoshop. It is called GIMP.

    You will be surprised at what you can do, but in doing that, if you are like me, it is almost like the first hit of heroin. That is always free. Of course I'm facetious!
  • edited December 2015
    Again, well covered, and a couple of things to add:

    The Gimp, as mentioned, is very powerful and complete, though a bit difficult to learn quickly. For less critical adjustments, size, cropping, file change, etc., the free programs Irfanview and Faststone Image viewer both work well. Irfan is fast and easy to use, but not much use for editing an image. Faststone a bit quirkier, but presents very nice views, and has a few more editing features. If you shoot Nikon Raw, the View NX2 program that is usually packaged with the camera, or Capture NX-D, available from the web, both do a good job of processing Raw pictures.

    If you are interested in odd and out of the way lenses, and want to be adventurous, Nikon has some advantage. Although they will not auto focus or even meter with the D3xxx and D5xxx cameras, you can mount and use manually almost any F mount lens Nikon has ever made, right back the first lenses made for the Nikon F in 1959.
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